lørdag 7. april 2012

Happy easter

Happy Easter, mine is spent at TG (The Gathering) experiencing "the fastes internet in the universe" 200 Gbit/s

For the occasion I made a Portal Turret Easter egg, filled with candy. It is made from an ordinary Easter egg, painted white. Details are made with markers, legs are made from the edges of a plastic lid and a led light is inserted. 

Turret portal easter egg
There you are...

Portal 2 cosplay

For my very first cosplay (2011) I went as Chell from Portal 2. This was mainly because I wanted to have a portal gun above my fireplace.

Photo: Erik Järlestrand

This was a great success, resulting with me winning "best sci-fi" and "best prop" awards. Under you can see my beloved portal gun <3 I need to take more photos of this cosplay ^_^


Portal Gun Prop
Photo: H.Nyhus


The costume included a Glados Potato (that talked) built in 15 minutes while waiting for paint to dry. (Yes, real potato)


fredag 6. april 2012

Skyrim helmet!

Making props using pizzaboxes and filler - Skyrim helmet
An easy way to make Skyrim helmet for cosplay. See part 2 for how to upgrade your helmet  


Photo: Grethe Bentsen

Utdate: This is what is ended up looking after the second iteration
Photo: Kake Yamamura/Kakeboksen

You don't have to invest a large amount to make props. This is how I made the standard helmet from Bethesta Elder Scrolls Skyrim. This helmet is made with a short deadline and with limited budget (about 200 NOK)

“Where to start”




Due to a short deadline I used a "Viking helmet" as a base, this one bought at Festmagasinet Standard, in Oslo. And then some work, the horns had to be turned, shortened and tilted.

Next step was adjusting cardboard. These were fastened with tape while adjusting and hot glued it when I was satisfied. For the transition from the horn to the helmet base I used foam mat.



Filler!

Filler is mostly used to smoothen transitions, fill out cracks and bumps and make a homogeneous surface prior to painting. For larges build up I recommend using plaster since thick layers of filler can easily crack. Therefore use thin layers.



Filler needs a lot of sanding, but the surface of the helmet is rough so I don't have to invest that many hours sanding. (And I was short of time).




Then you need to add texture and details to the horns. I used paper clay, dries fast, easy to mold and can be sanded and painted. I used the back of a knife to mold the horns after applying the clay.

Finishing.



When you have a homogeneous surface then you can prime your helmet. Then two coats of silver paint, remember good ventilation and mask. Check the specifications for your paint, but wait at least a couple of hours between paint coats and the 24 hours before further work.

Weathering.



The best part of making a prop (personal opinion) is weathering, adding dimension through detailing. I used cheap acrylic paint, watered out, painted on and partly dried it off with a cloth Add extra paint in cracks. Volpin have a really good video showing this process in detail.

For the horns I added a shade of yellow paint, darker at the base of each new "layer" on the horns. Extra detailing: blood spatter, less is better. Finish off with a clear coat paint to preserve weathering.

Fus roh dah!


Note: the horns are not accurate to the helmet in the game. I will upgrade this helmet during may 2012.